Cheviot shirting is a narrow, all-cotton fabric, made originally from the wool of Cheviot sheep, weighing from four to five ounces per yard of 27 inches width finished and is composed of single or double ends in the warp and single filling. The effect of the double ends is entirely different from that produced by a two-ply thread, and is really meant to create a rib weave effect. This fabric is made of cotton yarns, from l-16s to l-22s in the warp and filling, and the cloth contains from 40 to 46 double ends per inch in warp and 36 to 40 picks per inch in the filling. Another grade is made by weaving 36 to 62 single ends per inch in the cloth, and 19 to 52 picks per inch in the filling finished .
BY THE FIRST METHOD there is 'produced a cloth that is at once stout and pliable, and having excellent wearing qualities. This cloth Is used principally in the manufacture of shirts and mock shirts for the use of workmen accustomed to rough, dirty work, such as miners and railroad men, and those similarly employed. It is made in stripe pattern, usually of the darker tones of fast colors, such as dark blue, dark brown, etc., in the warp, and filling to match. In these warp stripe patterns the dark colors fonm 'the body or ground of the pattern andi the warp warp forms but a narrow pin stripe in the cloth. Then there are the light patterns, lm which meanly all the bright colors are used, such as light blue, orange, red, light greeny etc. In this case the body or ground of the cloth la formed by the white warp, and the bright color farms the pin stripe In the cloth. Print yarns are occasionally introduced in the light colored patterns to create mixed color effects. The filling in the light patterns is always white. In making Cheviot shirting there is rather a heavy size placed upon the warp yarn.
