Different labels of plain weave

Plain weave
(cotton or calico weave)
(tabby or Taffeta weave) 

A

Albatross (woolen, cotton)

Armoisin, Armosin (silk)

Armure

B
Bandana
Balloon cloth
Batiste (cotton)
Bengaline (Faille for silk, cotton, woollen)
Blanket (cotton, woollen)
Bourette
Broadcloth (woollen)
Buckram (woollen)
Burlap, gunny ou Hessian cloth (jute)
Butcher's linen

C
Calico (cotton)
Cambric (cotton)
Camel's hair
Canton crêpe
Canton linen
Canvas (cotton)
Casement cloth
Cassimere
Challie or Challis
Chambray (cotton)
Cheesecloth
Cheviot shirting (woollen)
Chiffon (silk)
China silk (silk)
Chintz (cotton)
Cretonne (cotton)
Crêpe de chine (silk)

Crêpe Georgette (silk)
Crêpe marocain (silk)
Crêpe mérino
Crêpe romain (2 threads together and 2 picks in the shed)
Crépon (cotton)
Crinoline

D
Dimity
Domet
Duck

E
Etamine
Eolienne
Epinglé
End on end (see : Fil à fil )

F
Faille see : Bengaline
Fil à fil
Flannel ( woollen)
Flannelette (cotton)
Florentine (silk)


G
Gingham common
Grenadine de lyon (silk)
Grosgrain (silk)
Gros d'Alger (silk)
Gros des indes (silk)


H
Habutae or Habutai (silk)
Hair cloth
Haïtienne (plain)
Hecowa
Hessian cloth (jute); see :  Burlap
Homespun

I


J
Jaconet or jaconas (cotton) 
Jute fabrics
Javanese - Javanaise

K

L
Lawn
Linen and metis

M
Madras (cotton)
Marceline (silk)
Marocain, Moroccan crêpe
Melton ou Pilou
Métis see : Linen and metis
Muslin, Mousseline (silk)
(La) Moire (in french)

N
Nainsook (cotton)
Noils

O
Osnaburg
Organdy ou organza (cotton)

P
Percale
Percaline
Pilou ou Melton
Pocketing
Poplin
Poplinette
Pongee (silk)
Poult de soie

R
Radium
Raw silk

S
Scrim
Seersucker
Shantung

T
Taffetas, Taffeta weave or Tabby
Taffetas à chaînes multiples
Taffetas changeant
Taffetas caméléon
Taffetas doublé
Taffetas double face
Taffetas écossais
Taffetas glacé
Taffetas imprimé sur chaine
Taffetas rayé
Tarlatane (cotton)
Toile à bluter
Toile de Jouy
Toile de soie
Toile de soie brodée
Tussah, Tussor

U


V
Veloutine
Voile

W
Wool 100%


Z
Zéphir

Plain Haïtienne

Poult de soie

Taffetas double face

Taffetas caméléon

Pongee

 Pongee.   Corruption of two Chinese words which signify

"native color'' because applied to silks which were not supposed to take the dye easily.
I. Fabric made of wild silk in the natural, tan color. Originated in China. Now made mostly in Shantung province on hand looms. Name Shantung applied loosely to a grade of pongee and to machine made cotton and silk combination and cotton imitations of pongee. Chinese pongee usually has rough yarns making an interesting texture. The practice of finishing with rice powder, which gives a dull effect, has been carried to excess resulting in adulteration of the silk; this fault of Chinese pongee has made it less salable than the1 Japanese product. Tussah, a Hindu word for a species of worm native to India, also refers to a variety of silk worms in China. Term is used loosely as a fabric name for a grade of pongee.
Japanese pongee is rapidly replacing Chinese pongee in this country because of its standard quality and freedom from rice powder finish. The grade is indicated by momme weight. Bolts are 5° yards in length. Pongee is washable but loses much of its beauty after repeated washing which brings out a lustre. It should be dry when ironed to prevent stiffness which is not natural to the fabric. Pongee may be dyed certain colors but will fade in the sun.  Name incorrectly applied to many and varied materials. Uses: curtains, shirts, bloomers, slips, linings, dresses, art needlework and hand dyeing. Weave—-plain

Taffetas écossais

Taffetas rayé

Taffetas glacé

Plain weave, Tabby

taffetas changeant

Taffeta(s) doublé

Taffetas à chaines multiples

Taffetas, Taffeta weave or Tabby, name for silk

Taffetas cuit

This is another word for basic cloth, ie, the simplest way of intertwining a warp and a weft yarn. This fabric is usually shiny, yarn-dyed, very fine-grained, with a dry and rustling feel.